The tangled thickets of nettle, blackberry and trumpet-shaped flowers sprawling across the site only heightened a sense of absence. From this vegetal maze, I could discern but a few cryptic clues to what went before: two fluorescent kitesurfing sails billowing above a bank of shingle hinted at an ocean beyond; three arches and a sluice […]
Cēsis Castle, Latvia, 2016. One of the largest mass suicides in European history took place here in 1577 when 300 defenders blew themselves up to avoid capture by the brutal Muscovite forces of Ivan the Terrible besieging the castle.
Should I unpack my case or explore my surroundings first? The view from the chalet over the Chobe River provided a compelling answer to this common holiday dilemma. The cobalt-blue waters sparkled like gemstones in the sun as they continued their eternal struggle with expansionist grasses for dominion over the floodplains of Namibia’s Caprivi Strip, […]
Punta del Diablo, Uruguay, 2020
Visitors to Wawel Castle in Krakow can hardly fail to notice the legions of fluffy dragons encircling nearby souvenir stalls. Legend has it that the original Wawel Dragon dwelt beneath the Castle […]
The evening sounds of the Okavango Delta permeated the canvas of my luxury safari-style tent. Baboons barked in the trees above before thudding onto the tent struts, crickets chattered insistently, and go-away-birds called out true to their name. After a while, all creatures were drowned out by a rhythmic, ripping noise that demanded attention. Perhaps […]
Taj Mahal, Agra, India, 2004. This photo symbolises my hope that we will soon return to gazing upon wonders and embracing each other across the artificial divides of household or culture. And that even in tragedy we may find inspiration, like Mogul Emperor Shah Jahan who lost his beloved wife but gifted the world this […]
It is sad that we cannot publicly commemorate Victory in Europe Day (VE Day) this 8th of May yet it also feels apt and even more poignant that its 75th anniversary should fall as we battle our own invisible enemy. Today many of us continue to stay at home to save lives while 75 years […]
Cattle ranch, Uruguay, 30 April 2020. Señora Vaca what startles you so? Is it the rare sighting of the lesser spotted gringo in the middle of Uruguay’s lockdown? Or perhaps you have just realised how grim your job prospects are in a country that consumes the most beef per capita in the world?
An almighty splash and primordial trumpeting wrenched me from the velvet embrace of the canopied bed. I strained my senses beyond the ghostly mesh of the mosquito net, past the stylish teak furniture and below the veranda to find them, to fathom their purpose. Yet I need not leave my bed to see them as […]